I enjoyed the luxury of my single room, and relished the chance to have a second long shower when I woke up in the morning. Trouble was, it was so quiet in my own room, I woke up late without realising it, and was almost too late for breakfast!
There was quite an array of friendly home-made signs along the track leaving Arzacq, always a boost for the morale! There was also another lake to pass, peaceful, with lots of birdlife. It was another overcast day, and it seemed like there would be more rain, but it ended up being light rain that never lasted long. In Louvigny there was a 'pilgrim' stained glass window in the church with this cockle shell, staff and gourd. Somehow the last leg into Uzan seemed to be tiring, but there was a very welcome surprise waiting. There was a lady who had this sign on her front gate.
And in her back garden was set up this umbrella over a table. You could serve yourself coffee or a cold drink, or....... there was delicious cake! (And like all these wonderful places in France, there was a little container where you could leave a small donation.) I stopped and talked with others who also stopped. I especially enjoyed speaking with a couple who lived near Paris, who had also started from Le Puy. They were in their 60s, but were very fit and didn't look their age! I was to enjoy meeting them a few more times over the following days.... and am actually still in touch with them by e-mail.
After a good rest time, the others moved on, but I was staying in a house in the village. The invitation to come in and 'install' yourself was on a little note on the door. The farmers were busy with their farm tasks and would appear later... It was the feast of St Quitterie, and this town had an old fountain to the saint. Apparently if women bathed their faces in the fountain on the feast day, wonderful things happened to the skin on their faces. I found the fountain, and it was certainly wet on the ground around it, so people had been bathing their faces there..... I didn't fancy getting my knees all muddy though!
Next morning I had breakfast in the farmhouse opposite. The cows were in the barn adjoining the kitchen, and I had some of their fresh milk. Like many villages in this area, the farmhouses were all grouped together, and had space for their animals nearby. But a lot of the fields were further away and the farmer travelled on his tractor to get to them. Quite different from the very 'separate' farms we have here at home in NZ.
When I was preparing to walk the route from Le-Puy-en-Velay to SJPP, I found there wasn't much info in English, and I hope this blog might fill the gap a little.... In 2008 I walked from Le Puy to Santiago. In 2012 I walked from Cluny to Conques, then spent three weeks in Spain, re-walking two sections of the Camino Frances. Please feel free to contact me if you wish.
Hunkered In
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The sky keeps changing colors, the wind roars all night and morning.
Sometime overnight it pulled the chicken-hut door off its hinges and
smashed it to k...
Beachscape
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I haven't blogged for a while, but here is a new poem.
*Beachscape*
*Surprising that I never knew before*
*the bright curve of this bay,*
*the way the wash...
Taranaki-born, long-time Manawatu resident and primary teacher; inveterate traveler, Camino walker, occasional cyclist, lover of sea and bush walks; getting into genealogy more; collapsed catholic; lapsed musician looking forward to doing more again in retirement
from the poem "The Summer Day" by Mary Oliver.....
" I don't know exactly what a prayer is. I do know how to pay attention, how to fall down into the grass, how to kneel down in the grass, how to be idle and blessed how to stroll through the fields, which is what I have been doing all day. Tell me, what else should I have done? Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon? Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?"
This quote is taken from notion900 on the Pilgrimage to Santiago forum: "Please know that although some people seem to imagine it as some appalling ordeal, the camino is a very health-giving thing - if you do simple things like healthy food, plenty of water, moisturise your feet and get plenty of sleep. Being out in nature for 5 weeks is just so life-giving: I finished the camino absolutely glowing with health and vitality. I hope you have a wonderful time."
'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius and power and magic in it.' Goethe
"Glowing... this is the thing about pictures of people on the Camino. This light within... As if the Camino washed the soul and cleared the eyes." Claire Bangasser in a comment on Johnnie Walker's blog
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