There was no more need for such an early start, and we left Monte de Gozo to head down the hill, just in time to catch the 9am bus into town. En route this time, it was great to be in a more relaxed mode, just to notice the details as I walked along. And for ye of little faith.... yes those are some brilliantly blue skies in Santiago! The Cathedral spire loomed ahead in the old part of the city. In the Cathedral there was a "High" Mass at 10am. It was more peaceful and less crowded than what was to come at midday... Outside the cathedral, one of the groups of young people from the previous night were singing together. Quite a few of them were up the front around the altar for the pilgrim mass. The cathedral transept was incredibly full when I returned there at 11.10am, full of bus tourists waiting to see the botafumiero swing. When it was swung just before the end of Mass, it was a bit like Disneyland. There was no doubt it was hugely impressive to see it swing - right across a huge area of the width of the transept. But people rushed up the aisle to take photos, then had to rush back again so they didn't get hit by it... then everyone was clapping and cheering..... it was all a bit much for a walking pilgrim used to the countryside..... I had decided to move into town for my last two nights, as the Seminario Menor was closer to the railway station for my 9.04am train. There was a great view back to the city.
You may wonder that I haven't mentioned much about the Saint and the Cathedral. I guess my lapsed-Catholic-ness is showing. My Quebec friend L did all the right things, and with passionate belief. In fact, much of her walk she was praying for someone very ill, and she prayed for the person here at the Tomb of the Apostle. For her, the pilgrimage was very much about arriving in the destination of Santiago. But for me, I think the pilgrimage lay in the journey, in the rhythm of the footsteps. (See more in my reflections if you wish...) And for me, Santiago was a place to joyfully re-meet some of those I had met walking along the way, and to say goodbyes. Santiago was I thought, quite a fascinating city to explore- and I measure these things by how easy it is for me to get lost in a city as I ramble down interesting side-streets etc. I got lost quite often! But on this occasion, being in Santiago was mostly about seeing special people. I will have to return another day as a 'tourist' if I really want to explore the city.
As the day ended, the sun shone on the tower of the Seminario. It was time to say some goodbyes.
When I was preparing to walk the route from Le-Puy-en-Velay to SJPP, I found there wasn't much info in English, and I hope this blog might fill the gap a little.... In 2008 I walked from Le Puy to Santiago. In 2012 I walked from Cluny to Conques, then spent three weeks in Spain, re-walking two sections of the Camino Frances. Please feel free to contact me if you wish.
Hunkered In
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The sky keeps changing colors, the wind roars all night and morning.
Sometime overnight it pulled the chicken-hut door off its hinges and
smashed it to k...
Beachscape
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I haven't blogged for a while, but here is a new poem.
*Beachscape*
*Surprising that I never knew before*
*the bright curve of this bay,*
*the way the wash...
Taranaki-born, long-time Manawatu resident and primary teacher; inveterate traveler, Camino walker, occasional cyclist, lover of sea and bush walks; getting into genealogy more; collapsed catholic; lapsed musician looking forward to doing more again in retirement
from the poem "The Summer Day" by Mary Oliver.....
" I don't know exactly what a prayer is. I do know how to pay attention, how to fall down into the grass, how to kneel down in the grass, how to be idle and blessed how to stroll through the fields, which is what I have been doing all day. Tell me, what else should I have done? Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon? Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?"
This quote is taken from notion900 on the Pilgrimage to Santiago forum: "Please know that although some people seem to imagine it as some appalling ordeal, the camino is a very health-giving thing - if you do simple things like healthy food, plenty of water, moisturise your feet and get plenty of sleep. Being out in nature for 5 weeks is just so life-giving: I finished the camino absolutely glowing with health and vitality. I hope you have a wonderful time."
'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius and power and magic in it.' Goethe
"Glowing... this is the thing about pictures of people on the Camino. This light within... As if the Camino washed the soul and cleared the eyes." Claire Bangasser in a comment on Johnnie Walker's blog
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