The yellow arrows were by now the familiar markers of my way, for another day of walking. There were, unsurprisingly, many vineyards to pass in this Rioja wine growing region, but also fields of crops. This is a Camino sign I have seen on many other people's Camino photos ;-)Some of the walk today was routed next to the motorway. The motorway sign was a little depressing: I had walked for a long time, and 102km still seemed such a long way even to Burgos! Just before Najera we passed a historic site where a battle took place against the Moors. Najera itself seemed a fairly ugly, uninspiring town, though I know of others who found a warm welcome here. It was a town that had many storks flying overhead, and they fascinated us. We found some seats beside the river for eating our lunch, and enjoyed the company despite the cold. Here are my three Canadian buddies at lunchtime, well wrapped up: I wished I still had my warm windjacket! It was another 6km to Azofra, which looked to be quite a poor town. I felt almost embarrassed at first to realise that the modern, purpose-built albergue was one of the flashest buildings in town. It was a welcome change to be in a two-bedded room, not in a bunk in a huge dorm. The hospitalero had been waiting for another single woman pilgrim to arrive to assign to be with someone he had already placed: and I ended up sharing with a Dutch woman we had first met at Orisson on the Pyrenees crossing. There was plenty of room for drying clothing outside, and this wonderful clean looking footpool. But it was oh such a bitterly cold afternoon, so nobody had their tired feet soaking! I know a family who walked this same route almost exactly a year later, in June 2009. They didn't have any of the bitterly cold days I had warned them about: it seemed that I was walking in the coldest June for ten years! Maybe because of the cold, I felt very hungry this day, as if I could eat a horse. So the local shop and restaurant both had my enthusiastic patronage!
When I was preparing to walk the route from Le-Puy-en-Velay to SJPP, I found there wasn't much info in English, and I hope this blog might fill the gap a little.... In 2008 I walked from Le Puy to Santiago. In 2012 I walked from Cluny to Conques, then spent three weeks in Spain, re-walking two sections of the Camino Frances. Please feel free to contact me if you wish.
Hunkered In
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The sky keeps changing colors, the wind roars all night and morning.
Sometime overnight it pulled the chicken-hut door off its hinges and
smashed it to k...
Beachscape
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I haven't blogged for a while, but here is a new poem.
*Beachscape*
*Surprising that I never knew before*
*the bright curve of this bay,*
*the way the wash...
Taranaki-born, long-time Manawatu resident and primary teacher; inveterate traveler, Camino walker, occasional cyclist, lover of sea and bush walks; getting into genealogy more; collapsed catholic; lapsed musician looking forward to doing more again in retirement
from the poem "The Summer Day" by Mary Oliver.....
" I don't know exactly what a prayer is. I do know how to pay attention, how to fall down into the grass, how to kneel down in the grass, how to be idle and blessed how to stroll through the fields, which is what I have been doing all day. Tell me, what else should I have done? Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon? Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?"
This quote is taken from notion900 on the Pilgrimage to Santiago forum: "Please know that although some people seem to imagine it as some appalling ordeal, the camino is a very health-giving thing - if you do simple things like healthy food, plenty of water, moisturise your feet and get plenty of sleep. Being out in nature for 5 weeks is just so life-giving: I finished the camino absolutely glowing with health and vitality. I hope you have a wonderful time."
'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius and power and magic in it.' Goethe
"Glowing... this is the thing about pictures of people on the Camino. This light within... As if the Camino washed the soul and cleared the eyes." Claire Bangasser in a comment on Johnnie Walker's blog
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