In Molinaseca we were warned that the albergue in Cacabelos often got full early with all the people leaving from Ponferrada being joined by those from Molinaseca. And they had details of a route that cut several kms off the total distance for the day. At this stage of the Camino I was wanting to reach Santiago before summer got too hot... so I opted for no stop in Ponferrada except a breakfast one, and the shortcut. So, Ponferrada also has to go on the list for more exploration another time when I am walking a shorter Camino than this one was...... We did still manage to walk past the castle though. Then got confused a bit later. What I hadn't understood about the shortcut was that it took us on an entirely different main road from where the Camino would have taken us, an excruciatingly busy road that kept going through urban sprawl, and with no pilgrim route markers. Luckily, D had more than enough Spanish to check directions, and he discovered that we were on the route that most pilgrims took, and that we would rejoin the other route quite a few kms down a long straight busy road.
Eventually we did emerge from the urban sprawl and found there were only 8 more kms to Cacabelos. The last bit of the walk became more country-fied, and we passed many vineyards. In the end, we were amongst the earliest arrivals in the albergue there, shortly after it opened. And it never filled up at all...... There were more two-bed berths in the style of Azofra here, and I was sharing with a young South African woman I had seen a few times. (But there wasn't any ventilation, so we slept all night with our door open.) Across the road from the albergue was an old people's home, and during the day there were often people on chairs here just watching all the activity as the pilgrim traffic went by.... I had a delicious meal for lunch in one of the restaurants in town, before relaxing for the siesta. And this was another albergue where you could book in for a leg massage from a professional masseur. My leg muscles were very tight and my ankles were sore. (I know, I know, I need to learn some proper stretches if I am going to ever do such a walk again!) And this massage was wonderful and came at just the right time. It got rid of so much of the tightness in my calf muscles, and let me enjoy the remaining days of walking so much more!
When I was preparing to walk the route from Le-Puy-en-Velay to SJPP, I found there wasn't much info in English, and I hope this blog might fill the gap a little.... In 2008 I walked from Le Puy to Santiago. In 2012 I walked from Cluny to Conques, then spent three weeks in Spain, re-walking two sections of the Camino Frances. Please feel free to contact me if you wish.
Hunkered In
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The sky keeps changing colors, the wind roars all night and morning.
Sometime overnight it pulled the chicken-hut door off its hinges and
smashed it to k...
Beachscape
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I haven't blogged for a while, but here is a new poem.
*Beachscape*
*Surprising that I never knew before*
*the bright curve of this bay,*
*the way the wash...
Taranaki-born, long-time Manawatu resident and primary teacher; inveterate traveler, Camino walker, occasional cyclist, lover of sea and bush walks; getting into genealogy more; collapsed catholic; lapsed musician looking forward to doing more again in retirement
from the poem "The Summer Day" by Mary Oliver.....
" I don't know exactly what a prayer is. I do know how to pay attention, how to fall down into the grass, how to kneel down in the grass, how to be idle and blessed how to stroll through the fields, which is what I have been doing all day. Tell me, what else should I have done? Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon? Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?"
This quote is taken from notion900 on the Pilgrimage to Santiago forum: "Please know that although some people seem to imagine it as some appalling ordeal, the camino is a very health-giving thing - if you do simple things like healthy food, plenty of water, moisturise your feet and get plenty of sleep. Being out in nature for 5 weeks is just so life-giving: I finished the camino absolutely glowing with health and vitality. I hope you have a wonderful time."
'Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius and power and magic in it.' Goethe
"Glowing... this is the thing about pictures of people on the Camino. This light within... As if the Camino washed the soul and cleared the eyes." Claire Bangasser in a comment on Johnnie Walker's blog
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